Henrietta horn



(NoModel.) 1 Y w H. HORN. ADJUSTABLE vlJLTIILBJT POR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 514,622* Patented Feb. 13; '1394,

IZ m Mme commun UNrrnD Srarns Ferretti 'reine HENRETTA HORN, OF NEVARK, NEW' YORK, ASSGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO GEORGE A. HORN, OF SAME PLACE.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARNIENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 514,622, dated February 13, 1894.

Application filed April 22, 1893. Serial No. 471,477'. (No model.)

To all whom, t may con/cern.: ble joint controlled by a clamping screw k. Be it known that I, HENRIETTA HORN, of The front bar A is composed of an outer Newark, in the county of Wayne and State main part or bar, b4, and an inner bar, p, the of New York, have invented a new and useformer being folded over at its edges forming 5 5 ful Improvement in Adjustable Patterns for a channel, o, within which the bar p is adapt- Drafting Garments, which improvement is ed to slide longitudinally, for getting front fully set forth in the following specification measures. The bar p is joined to the neck and shown in the accompanying drawings. bar E by a clamping screw, Ir, passing through My invention relates to adjustable patterns the slot in E. ro for drafting dresses or similar garments, in The part e of the waist har is adapted to be which various patterns are used in combinaheld rigidly to the outer bar b4 of the front tion to draft the dierent parts necessary to bar by a clamping screw, t', the inner bar p make a complete garment except the skirt. being always at liberty to move in b4 with Theinvention ishereinafterfullydescribed moderate friction. The shoulder bar F is .x5 and more particularly pointed out in the made entendible like the other similar bars claims. ot the pattern by being composed of two over- Referring to the drawings, Figure l is the lapping sliding pieces connected by loops f4. front and under arm pattern; Fig. 2, the This bar is preferably made slightly conback; Fig. 3, the sleeve; and Fig e the dart vexed upward in the middle and is joined to 7c zo rule. Fig. 5 shows more clearly the form of the neck bar by a clamping screw, s.

an essential part of the bust bar. Fig. 6 The arms eye bar G is substantially the shows the slotted part of the front waist bar. saine as shown in former Patent N o. 490,022, Fig. 7 shows the slotted part of the back waist of January 17, 1893, and it consists of a part bar. Fig. 8 better shows the connection ot t, held by a movable joint, u, to the shoulder 75 2 5 the center back bar and the hack neck-bar, bar, a part fu, held to the bust bar by a clampparts being seen as indicated by arrow in ing screw b', and a curved slottedpart w, Fig. 2, Figxlis across section on the dotted joined to the respective parts i and o by line 9 9 in Fig. l. Fig. l0 shows the graduclamping screws as To a projection on the ated bar of the dart rule. Figs. 8, 9 and 10 part wl attach a pendent slotted upper arms 8o 3o are drawn to scales larger than that of the eye bar y, joining the two parts by a movable other figures. joint e'.

Referring to the parts shown, the pattern The part m of the bust bar, better shown for the front and the underarm piece, Fig. l, in Fig. 5, is formed with a horizontal slot a', is formed with a vert-ical front bar, A, and a through which the clamping screw bfor hold- 3 5 main under arm bar, B, connected by a hori-V ing the part o, passes. The bar y crosses the zout-al waist bar, C, and bust bar, D. A bar m and a clamping screw g, common to shoulder bar, F, is provided, connected with the slots in both, holds Said bars together. the front bar by a curved slotted neck bar, On account of this construction and arrange- E, and to the bust bar by a compound arms ment of the parts the bar y may be moved 9o 4o eye bar G. vertically, or swung laterally along the bar The main under arm bar. B is composed of m, and secured in any desired position. two minor bars or parts, a b, fitted to slide The bar b of the main under arm bar B is longitudinally upon each other by means of marked with a scale for under arm measureloops, c d, one rigid with each part d b. The ments, the scale being read at the lower end '45 'bar C is composed of minor sliding parts or of the overlapping bar c. The bar f of the bars, ef, provided with loops, g h. The bar waist bar'ls marked with a scale for waist D is composed of sliding parts or minor bars, measurements, read at the right-hand end of Z m, connected by a loop, n. The bar Z is the bar e. The bar m is marked with ascale rigid with A, forming a right angle therefor bust measurements, readat the right-hand 10o o with, and the bar m is rigid with c.. The end of the overlapping bar Z. The barZ is parts f b of the bars C B arejcined in a tlexi-` marked with a scale for chest measurements,

read at the left-hand end of the loop nthereon. The bar y is marked with a scale for upper arms eye measurements. The clamping screw g', which holds the bars y and m together, also reaches over onto the bar Z to hold the latter, so that all. three bars, l m and y, may be secured at once by turning down said clamping screw. struction and arrangement of these graduated bars they all may be set at one operation for bust measurement, chest measurement and upper arms eye measurement.

The neck bar is marked with the usual scale for neck measurements, which is read at the clamping screw r. The shoulder bar Fis marked with a scale at its left-hand end for shoulder measurements, read at the lefthand loop f4. The portion tot' the arms eye bar Gr is marked with the usual scale for arms eye measurements. The harp of the front bar is marked with a scale for front measurements; and when the adjacent end of the waist bar is set upon the part b4 of the front bar for such measurements, it is set with reference to said scale, but secured to the part b4.

The waist bar C is provided with a slotted part or bar d', beneath or back of the barf, and of the same width and length, fully shown in Fig. 6. This bar d is held at one end by the clamping screw 7c and at the other end by the loop h. A narrow reversible, extendible, under arm bar H, is provided, eX- tending from the waist bar to the bust bar, composed of two sliding parts c e', having ordinary loops f f', one secured to each. The upper end of this bar is held against the bar m by the clamping screw b which holds the part fv of the arms eye, so that both parts, v and H, move together as said clamping screw is carried along the slot a. The lower end of the bar H is secured movably to the bar d by a bolt or pin c4, Fig. 6, passing through said bar H and the slot in d', the bar H being adapted to be moved with moderate friction laterally along the bar d as may be required. The bar H is preferably formed with swivel pieces at its ends substantially as shown and described in the Letters Patent above referred to, and for the purpose therein stated, and is not here shown nor claimed to be new.

As a further improvement in dress patterns I provide the front bar A with a jointed, extendible, swell front bar, I. This bar has its upper end held by the clamping screw r in the neck bar and its lower end resting in a Aloop or bearing h', of the waist bar; see Fig.

Bymeans of this con` tended to a greater or less distance forward of the front bar A or be carried up or down, the clamping screw i serving to hold it in any position of adjustment.

The pattern for the back, shown in Fig. 2 consists mainly of a center back bar K, waist bar L, back side-bar B', arms eye N, and shoulder bar O. A slotted back neck bar, p', is provided, joined to the shoulder bar by a pivot joint o', and to the center back bar by a single clamping screw fr', and sliding clasp s', Fig. 8. A width-of-back bar P, is joined to the bars K and B parallel with the waist bar and in line with the bust bar D of the front pattern. The arms eye is formed of two circular slotted parts t t', lapping upon each other and connected with the respective bars O and B' by pivot joints 'v' fv, and held together by a clamping screw u. The waist bar L is held rigidly to the bar K by a rivet w', and it is provided with a slotted bar S, beneath or back of it, see Fig. '7. This slotted bar is held at one end by the rivet w and at the other end by the loop g2.

A shiftable side form bar R, is added to the hack pattern, having its upper end held by the clamping screw u', and its lower end held by a pin d4, passing through it and through the slot in S. This serves to connect said parts R and'S so that the lower end of the former may be shifted laterally along the latter with moderate friction. This bar R is formed with projecting points h3 h3, one at either end, to which to mark lin laying out the back and the back side-form. The joint at between L and B', and the joint at y', between the bars B and P, are movable.' The bar P is joined to the center back bar, at z', so as to move up or down thereupon with moderate friction.

The bar O is preferably made slightly con- Vex like the bar F of the front pattern, and this bar and the bar P are` each formed with two longitudinally sliding parts a2 a2, and b2 b2, respectively, with connecting loops c2 and d2. Also the waist bar L is formed in two parts e2 e2, with a loop g2, to join them. Likewise the side form bar R, which is slightly curved, is formed with two parts sliding upon each other through loops]2 f2. The side back bar B is also made longitudinally extendible by being composed of two parts h2 and i2, like its counterpart B, Fig. l, of the pattern for the front and under arm.

The bar K is formed with two scales, the upper one for length of back measurements and the lower one for under arm measurements. In setting the pattern for the former measurement the back neck bar p is moved vertically along the bar K to indicate said measurement. P is likewise moved vertically along the bar K to indicate the under arm measurement, both measurements being made with reference to the waist line.

The scale for width-of-back measurements is marked on the bar P and read at the right- The right-hand end of the bar IIO hand loop d?. The'scale for waist measure`- ments is 'marked'ori the bar L 'next the bar K. The scale for the arnis eye measurement is marked on the upper piece t' of the arms eye bar, and the scale for back neck measurement is `marked on the back neck bar p.

The pattern of the sleeve, shown in Fig. `3, consists of a T-shaped piece U, and two rigid right-angled or L-shaped piecesVand T, having an arm of each, 71:2 Z2, lapping upon the respective ends of U. The latter piece is formed with loops m2 m2, and the parts 71:2 Z2 are provided respectively with loops n2 o2, so as to slide upon the part U. The parts k2 and Z2 with the contiguous parts of U form a straight line, and together constitute the main longitudinal bar or frame of the pattern. The arm p2 ot the piece T and the` arm r2 of the piece Il hold slotted scales s2 and 2, respectively; and clamping screws/u-2 and o2 passing through said arms and the slots in the scales serve to hold the contiguous parts together. The arm to2 of the part V is also provided with arigid inclined scale g3, slotted like s'2 and t2. A light extendible bar X crosses the scales s2, t2 and g3, clamping screws m2 y2 e2, being pro vided to hold said harto the contiguous parts.

The bar X is composed of four sections a3 Z13 c3 d3, two at either side of' the scale t2, the parts d3 and b3 being formed with sliding loops es, and the parts cS and d3 formed with sliding loops f3, as shown. The clamping screw x2 passes through the slot in s2 and is rigid with the part a3. The clamping screw y2 passes through the slot in t2 and forms a pivot joint with both the parts h3 and c3. The

`clam ing screw z2 asses throuvh the slot in g3, forming a rigid joint with the section d3.

An extendible bar composed of the parts i3,

m3, k3 and Z3, with sliding loops n3 and o3, is

provided for the inside seam line of the sleeve.

The art 'is is 'oined, atfrs, to an arm 3 ot4 P J .i9

the part T, and the part 2.3 is joined to the scale g3, which latter corresponds to the wrist of the sleeve. The parts m3 and lf3 are pivoted at s3 to the piece U. A

A short entendible bar t3, pivoted at one end, at r3, and held at the other end by a clamping screw r1.3, passing through the slot ofthe scale s2 serves to form a part of the under arm portion of the sleeve.

To form the pui at; the top of the sleeve I provide an arch composed of parts u w3 and m3, reaching above the scale s2. This arch is rendered extendible by its component parts being adapted to slide longitudinally one upon another through loops yg. The part 'v3 is held movably by the pivot r3 and the part x3 is held movably by the clamping screw to2. The parts :1:3 and a3 being both controlled by the clamping screw x2 they move simultaneously as said clamping screw is shifted along the scale s2. The parts b3 and c3 being controlled by the clamping screw ya both move together as the clamping screw is shifted along the scale i2 to give the required dimension of the sleeve at the elbow. The shifting ot the clamping screw .e2 along the slotted part g3 determines the size of the sleeve at the wrist.

The scale or part s2 is marked at its left side with a lower arms eye scale and at its p right side with an upper arins eye scale. The part t2 is marked at its left side with lower elbow scale and at its right side with an upper elbow scale, and the part g3 i's marked with an upper and lower wristscale at its right and left sides respectively. By means of these various upper and lower scales, and its construction otherwise, the sleeve pattern is adapted for marking out both the upper and the under pieces of the sleeve.

The scale for the measurement of length of sleeve from the shoulder to elbow is marked on the part T and read at the left of thelefthand loop m2. And the scale for the measurement of length from elbow to Wrist is marked on the part V and read at the right .of the right-hand loop m2.

IvVith these patterns for the front, back and sleeve, I employ a dart rule, shown in Fig. 4, its application being indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1. This dart rule consists of curved bars A', common in this class of dress patterns, and a base or cross bar B2. The parts A are joined by a pivot es, and are provided with swivel sliding clasps n.4 a4, of common construction to connect them with the base B2.

The bar or rule B2, better shown in Fig. l0, is formed with folded edges and marked on IOO its interior with three independent scales l, 2

and 3, for cutting one, two or three darts. If, for instance, one dart only is to be made on each side 0E a waist the dart rule is set with reference to scale l; if two darts are to be made on each side, the dart rule is set with reference to scale 2; and if three darts are to be made for each side of the waist in any given case, the dart rule is set according to scale 3. For hip curve the dart rule is set according to scale l.

` In using these patterns the swell front bar I and the side form bar R are set according to fashion. The front sliding bar jp is raised to neck measure as indicated on neck bar, and the waist bar is adjusted to front measure as indicated on the scale on bar p. The reversible under arm bar is set according to fashion; and to mark the other seam it is moved one inch at waist bar and reversed to get the proper curve of side form. The main under arm bar is set to under arm measure. bust bar and upper arms eye bar are set to bust, chest and upper arms eye measures indicated on the respective scales. Lower arms eye measure is found by subtracting Width of Thel IIO

dicate at once the back neck measure and the length-of-back measure, both bars being held together by the single clamping screw fr. The parts t t of arms eye bar are set to arms eye measure.

In using the sleeve pattern the parts T and V are shifted upon U to indicate measurements of length of sleeve from arms eye to elbow and from elbow to wrist. The bars X and s are shifted by moving the clamping screws 002, y2, z2 and a3, along the respective scales s2 252 and g3, to indicate the measurements at arms eye, elbow and wrist. The parts forming the arch for the pu of the sleeve are adj usted according to fashion. The length of sleeve may be obtained by measuring from center of back to wrist and then deducting width of back. By loosening the clamping screws u2 and 1:2 the scales s2 and t2 may be closed onto the parts p2 and r2 to condense the pattern for convenience of packing or carrying. The point vl of the swell front bar I, Fig. 1, is adjusted to height of dart measure. This baris shown in the figure proj ected farther forward of the front bar A than would be the case in practice this exageration inthe drawings being resorted to to more clearly show the operation of the bar.

What I claim as my invention isl. In adjustable patterns for drafting dresses, a bust bar formed of two overlapping bars 0r parts lm, the former being marked with a scale for chest measurements and the latter being formed with a slot and marked with a scale for bust measurements, in combination with a slotted upper arms eye bar marked with a scale for upper arms eye measurements, crossing said bars Z m, and a clamping screw for said bars l m and the upper arms eye bar, serving to hold all three together whereby at a single operation the parts may be set to the measurements for bust, chest and upper arms eye, and means for vholding said parts in an operative position substantially as shown and described.

2. In adjustable patterns for drafting dresses, an arms eye formed of curved slotted overlappin g parts t t', a clamping screw therefor, and a waist bar provided with a horizontal slotted part S, in combination with an extendible side form bar held at its upper end by said clamping screw and at its lower end by a pin adapted to slide laterally in said slotted part, said' side form bar being formed with points h3 h3, projecting beyond said arms eye and the waist bar respectively, and means for holding said parts in an operative position substantially as shown and described.

3. In adjustable sleeve patterns, a bar cornyposed of a T-shaped piece U, and two L-shaped pieces, T V, adapted to slide upon the piece f U, the pieces T V being marked with scales for length of sleeve from shoulder to elbow and from elbow to wrist respectively, the piece V being formed with ascale g3, and the pieces U and T being provided with sliding scales t2 and s2 respectively, in combination with two extendible bars for the sides of the sleeve, one connecting said three scales and the other connecting the scale g3 with the part U and an arm p3 rigid with the part T, and a iexible bar t3 connecting said arm with the scale s2, substantially as shown and described.

4. In adjustable sleeve patterns a bar composed of three main parts V, U and T, adapted to slide one upon another the first and last of said parts being marked with scales for length of sleeve from shoulder to elbow and from elbow to wrist respectively, said main parts being each provided with a scale, in combination with extendible side bars connected with said scales and said main parts respectively, and an extendible arch above the part T having its respective ends controlled by fasteners c2 r3 which hold the ends of said side bars, to form a continuous contour with said HENRIETTA HORN.

Witnesses:

ENOS B. WHITMORE, M. L. WINsToN. 

